[New York]: NP, 1985. First edition. 1) Publicity photographs of Diane von Furstenberg by Helmut Newton & press photographs:
A) Four 8" x 10" b/w publicity photographs, announcing the opening of Diane von Furstenberg's boutique (all four in duplicate, total of eight photographs). Two photographs by Helmut Newton show von Furstenberg modeling the "Fatale" & "Venezia" dress. All with typewritten information of design pasted on lower rear margin with text folding out below photograph.
a) "Fatale," dress of pearl pink silk marocain and black lace. A Gala gown from the Couture collection created for Diane von Furstenberg Fifth Avenue, opening November, 1984. Same image of Furstenberg by Newton depicted on original invitation card to the opening of her Couture Collection (see # 4 below).
b) "Venezia," sumptuous swatches of imported black lace and black silk charmeuse for Gala occasions, from the Couture collection created for Diane von Furstenberg Fifth Avenue, opening November, 1984.
c) "Zanzibar," a slim gown of Gondola black silk jersey with cocq feathers ruche, for grand exits and Gala occasions, from the Couture Collection created for Diane von Furstenberg Fifth Avenue, opening November, 1984.
d) Reproduction of a b/w drawing by architect Michael Graves on photo-paper of Furstenberg's Fifth Avenue storefront.
B) Press photos from 1984 Spring/Summer Couture Collection: Thirteen b/w 8" x 10" photos of two models showing eleven different designs. (Three of the thirteen photographs in duplicate). Following four photos with typewritten information of design pasted on lower rear margin with text folding out below photograph:
a)"Canaletto," silk chiffon of floral print jacquard, with pleated silk shantung collar. "Negroni," blouse of silk jersey and "Expresso" skirt of silk shantung (1 duplicate).
b) "Aria," evening gown with pond lilies of burnt-out chiffon floating over iridescent silk, and a pleated, iridescent handkerchief hemline in gentle motion about the ankles.
c) "Backstage," mitsouko jersey dress of black and white stripes with pink shirt, and an unexpected black inset of crisp white lace.
d) "Concerto," gown with snugly draped torso of sienna silk jersey, and petal skirt of blue organza. A midnight blue bolero of three-dimensional lace (not shown) accompanies the dress, to be donned at will.
Two photographs with handwritten information on verso: a) "Tee-shirt de Mitsonko Racine, noi et blanc, Eté 85" (1 duplicate). b) "Cache coeur de Mitsonko Racine Jonquille, Eté 85."
Includes 3 Polaroid's pasted on heavy card stock with handwritten info at rear:
a) 1 color Polaroid on 1 card stock: "Alma dress, Fabric: Racine Trais bleu..." Color Polaroid shows model in red dress with purple scarf.
b) 2 color Polaroid's on 1 card stock: "Hube(id?)", Fabric Racine Trais bleu..." First showing model in black skirt with blue & black striped top, the other depicts dress only but with blue skirt and red and black stripes.
2) Fully & partly colored renderings, original pencil & ink drawings in various states by Diane von Furstenberg and her staff of her 1985 Fall Couture designs: Majority drawn on 8 1/4" x 11 1/2' leaves.
a) 75 original fully colored renderings. Many accompanied with handwritten notes and information on design. Some of designs shown: Sirocco, Candlelight, Delta, Tornado, Hurricane, Blizzard, Torrent, Martini, Margarita, Screwdriver, Negroni, Descent, Divan. Six drawings with some water staining which bled some of the colors. Some creasing to parts of leaves. Overall very good condition.
b) 22 partly colored original drawings and renderings. Some accompanied with handwritten notes and information on design. Two designs on smaller leaves, 4" x 6" & 3" x 8 1/4". Minor creasing to edges of leaves. Very good condition.
c) 18 original b/w pencil drawings. 1 on smaller sheet 4 1/4" x 6 1/2". Few designs with notes. Three punch holes along inner edge of each leaf. 1 leaf water stained & repaired with tape. Other leaves in very good condition.
d) 15 original drawings in black ink, 2 in blue ink (1 on smaller sheet, 4" x 7 1/4"). Majority with notes and annotations. Three punch holes along inner edge of each leaf. Water staining on four leaves, all others in very good condition.
e) 7 Xerox copies of designs heightened with original hand coloring. One design with printed sticker: "Diane von Furstenberg Collection. Style Cadiz # 8158 Evening Dress." One wool jersey design with notes. Three punch holes along inner edge of each leaf.
f) 11 Xerox copies of designs with notes. Designs shown: Sonata, Savanna, Capriccio, Divan and others. Two leaves with water staining, some with three punch holes along inner margin.
3) Fall/Winter 85 Collection - Ensembles' Combinations: Original swatches of different fabrics with color & b/w Xerox copies of designs closer to production.
Colorful collection of over 300 swatches in various sizes: Mistral, Twist, Arida, Concerto, Espresso, Steppe, Tundra, Lausanne, Shiver, Reef, Fjord, Atoll, Iceberg, Sirocco, Savanna, Cuba Libre, Lagoon, Black Russian, Glimpse, Gin Fizz, Cuba Libre, Ludwig, Rob Roy, Hurricane, Bellini, Polo Ascott, Capulet, Solinas, etc. Most swatch samples accompanied with Xerox copy of designs in which the fabrics were used.
All leaves & samples in ring folder, divided into four parts: Daytime, Cocktail, Hostess, & Evening.
a) Daytime: 138 swatches mounted on 19 leaves. Fabrics were used in the Descent, Blizzard, Delta, Slogan, and other styles.
b) Cocktail: 105 swatches mounted (few taped) onto 21 leaves. Styles: Sonata, Delta, Margarita, Negroni, Screwdriver, Camaleon.
c) Evening: 51 swatches mounted on 18 leaves. Styles: Tobogan, Favorite, Concerto, Nymphea, It's Hot Up Here, Ada, High Noon. Three Favorite style swatches accompanied by 3 Polaroid's of model in that very same evening dress & color Xerox copy of drawing.
d) Hostess: 63 swatches mounted on 15 leaves. Styles: Divan, Love Seat, Cupid, Martini, Bloody Mary.
Original sticker of Diane von Furstenberg Fifth avenue with handwritten "Fall 1985 Collection" pasted on front cover of ring folder. Creasing to some leaves, otherwise good to very good condition. Swatches in fine condition.
4) Printed Invitation to von Furstenberg's first Couture Collection & Publicity Leaf of Furstenberg by Helmut Newton:
a) 7" x 10" fold-out invitation. Inside of front fold shows b/w reproduction of a photograph by Helmut Newton of Furstenberg modeling the "Fatale" dress (8" x 10" publicity photograph of same image present above in part A). Opposite side with printed text: "Diane von Furstenberg cordially invites _____ to personally preview her first Couture Collection. By Appointment only. Nancy Bard (212) 753-1111." Slightly creased but overall very good.
b) Advertising sheet in duplicate, 6 1/2" x 8 3/4" reproduction of a color photograph by Helmut Newton of Furstenberg posing in netted Rose-hat and elegant black jacket. Photograph was taken especially on the occasion for the opening of her first Couture Collection. Image printed on 8 1/2" x 11" sheet with von Furstenbergs logo on lower margin and text: "Couture Collection - Exclusively at 783 Fifth Avenue, New York - (212) 753-1111." Top right corner of both leaves slightly creased. Overall good+ to very good condition.
c) Three typewritten press-release letters, announcing the opening of the boutique. Two on von Furstenberg's letterhead. Letters contain biography, architectural details of her store and notes on her first couture collection.
5) 2 typewritten & 1 handwritten price list:
a) Price List: Boutique "Diane" - Fall 84 / Spring 85 Display. 4 stapled typewritten leaves.
b) Retail Price List: Smart Lunch & Vernissage. 1 typewritten leaf. Edges and corner slightly creased.
c) 1 handwritten price list. vg. Item #32175
Diane von Furstenberg is one of the most successful and influential fashion designers in the world. Belgian-born von Furstenberg arrived in New York in 1970. Only four years later she became famous for creating the "wrap dress," which launched a liberating style movement for women around the world. She also became very successful with her in-house cosmetic line, taking the beauty business by storm. In the early 1980's von Furstenberg sold her cosmetic business and returned to her fashion roots, opening her first luxury boutique "Diane Von Furstenberg Fifth Avenue," on the ground floor of the Sherry Netherland Hotel at 783 Fifth Avenue in New York City. The Michael Graves - designed store carried her new couture collection called "Diane," many of the designs of that collection present in our collection. It was promoted with a campaign shot by Helmut Newton, who was the first to photograph Diane in her new line (item # 1in our lot). After relocating to Europe, she ran the couture business from afar while pursuing other business interests in France. After returning to the United States in 1990 she realized she no longer had control of the brand bearing her name. In order to reconnect with customers and the business of fashion, Von Furstenberg pioneered the television-shopping movement by developing a colorful line of fashion, generating millions in sales. In 1997 she re-launched her company with the iconic wrap dress that started it all. In 2005 she was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America for her contribution and tremendous influence on the fashion industry. In a remarkable career of over 4 decades, von Furstenberg proved herself a financial genius and fashion wizard whose achievement was based on creativity, imagination and hard work. As of the present her DVF fashion brand is sold in over 60 countries.